Jan 24, 2016

the coolest kid vest

Poor Colin misses the boat on mama-made clothing sometimes.  He can be very picky about his clothes, and he often refuses to wear what few pieces I have made for him.  Sometimes I feel bad about this, but I usually channel those feelings into a new skirt for me or a dress for Cara.  When I stumbled across the Aztec Hooded Vest by See Kate Sew, I decided that it would be perfect for my most difficult client.

I was initially drawn to this vest because it is reversible.  It also has an oversized hood, perfect for the cold snowy days we are having lately.  The open-welt pockets are a unique feature as well.  I had been hanging on to this beautiful plaid flannel--I bought it to use for a Christmas outfit for Colin, which didn't happen--and it seemed like a perfect match for this vest.  I was nervous about getting my stripes lined up across the front zipper, but it ended up matching perfectly.

Those pockets are really deep--the pocket bags extend all the way across the bottom of the vest.  I didn't have quite enough flannel to do the pockets bags, but I like the solid navy as a design feature.  For the reverse side, I went to my stash and found this chambray railroad stripe.  I also found some leftover quilt batting from that time I thought I would like making quilts, and I decided adding the batting would be the perfect way to make this vest not only adorable, but also quite functional in the cold.  This was an easy modification.  I cut the pattern pieces out of both the fabric and the batting and stitched them together in 1 inch rows.  I'm not sure if that's the right way to explain that since I am no quilter.  Regardless, I am very pleased with how the reverse side turned out.

I just love the texture of quilted garments!

Probably the hardest part of this project was sourcing the zipper.  Apparently, reversible separating zippers are a specialty item.  Who knew?  I could only find a 16 inch zipper, so that meant my husband got to attack it with his tools.  There are plenty of tutorials all over the internet for shortening zippers.  He removed the stoppers at the top, removed the extra zipper teeth, and replaced the stoppers at the right length.  That sounds a little bit easier than it actually was.  

Are you ready for lots of adorable pictures of the boy in his super cool vest?  He was pretty excited about it when I showed him the finished product and wanted to put it on immediately.  His outfit doesn't match at all, but his little face is just precious.

Oct 3, 2015

and in first grade, we wear skirts

I kind of missed the whole "first day of school" hoopla this year.  Poor Cara did not even get a first day of first grade picture on Instagram.  It's mostly due to her slacker of a mom, but it's also because first grade felt like returning to our routine.  No big deal, even though first grade has been a bit of a big deal.  Cara is in a first/second grade combined class this year, the result of a teacher transfer two weeks into the school year, and it's been pretty awesome so far.  But enough about that; you're really here for the sewing, right? ;-)

I realized recently that Cara was in need of some new skirts and dresses because she keeps getting taller.  What is that?  Children growing?  I haven't had much sewing time lately since my day job manages to occupy quite a bit of my evening/weekend time, but I finally hit a lull just in time for Hurricane Joaquin, so Cara scored three new Oliver and S Swingset Skirts this weekend.

The fine folks over at Oliver and S just released the Swingset Skirt as a single with sizing all the way up to 14, which makes it a pretty good deal for my girl.  The twirly, swingy style is one she loves anyway, and I had some perfect fabric already in my stash.

Skirts 1 and 2 are made of jersey knit, like lightweight t-shirt fabric (skirt 1's fabric is leftover from this top).  Skirt 3, the first one I whipped up, is rayon challis leftover from my Gabriola skirt.  The Swingset Skirt calls for mid to lightweight wovens, but after seeing how nicely the drape of the rayon challis suited the style, I thought a stable knit would be perfect.

As usual, Oliver and S patterns never fail to produce a quality garment, inside and out.  The Swingset Skirt is fully lined, which only adds to the twirl and fun factors.  Check out my linings:

All of the lining fabrics came out of my stash too--this skirt doesn't take much yardage, so it's great for using up smaller pieces.  

Cara seems to really like these skirts, enough that she was willing to model three different outfits.  She's a good sport.

She's such a fun girl these days.  I mean, I know she's mine and all, but really, she's got such a bright personality.  I just love seeing her become more and more herself.

Poor Colin!  I haven't forgotten the boy--he's next on my sewing list.  He's looking like such a big boy with his new short haircut, and big boys need fun, striped cargo pants, right?  Right.

Sep 12, 2015

simplicity 1463 x 2

When I think of fall sewing, I think of wool, flannel, and cozy knits.  I know it's not actually fall yet, but I think we might get a taste of slightly cooler temperatures coming up this week, so I thought I would test out two fall-ish knit tops that I made at the end of the summer.

I bought Simplicity 1463 last summer after stumbling across Lauren Dahl's version of view A and Sally's version of view B.  I actually made both versions at the time, but I wasn't entirely happy with the way they turned out.  I didn't have a serger, and while that doesn't break a knit project, I just didn't feel like my tops looked all that professional or fit very well.  However, I decided to try again now that my serger and I are good friends, and I'm quite pleased with the results this time.

View A:

I love this loose drapey style for fall--it's perfect with skinny jeans and boots.  I'm not sure of how flattering it is, but that's all a matter of personal preference anyway, and this is mine.  I made this version in a size small, which is right where my measurements fall, so I would say this view runs fairly true to size.  This fabric has been sitting in my stash for quite a while, mainly because I wasn't sure what to do with it.  The gray stripes are jersey, but the orange stripes are a sheer mesh and they are bright.  I think this works pretty well with the simple design of this top.

The back hem dips significantly lower than the front, but I think this works well with skinnies.

I cut this top out in a single layer to keep my stripes in line.  Both side seams match nicely, but only one shoulder seam matches...weird, but not terribly bothersome.

View B:

View B looks like a regular t-shirt in the front, but the beauty of this pattern is in the back.

I know it's a bit hard to see in this busy floral, but the back of this top features a pleated cross-over with a tie at the neckline.  The pattern cover art does a really poor job of showcasing this feature, and I would imagine a top this unique would be a major selling point.

When I made this view last year, I cut a size small thinking that it would fit similar to view A.  It was huge.  I tried to wear it a bit to see if I would end up liking it or finding a way to make it work, but it went to handmade garment heaven.  I'm not a pattern tracer, so I figured this view was a loss unless I bought the pattern again.  Fortunately, miraculously, when I looked at the pattern tissue again this year, I was able to simply cut down a size with very little issue.  I think this was just a case of sewing stars aligning.

The success of these two tops makes me want to whip up a few more knit projects before I dive into my wool and flannel.  I definitely want another cowl-neck Renfrew, and I think Cara would be quite cute in a stripey Skater dress.  How's your fall sewing going?

Aug 30, 2015

Vogue 1387--meh

I'm now at two failed sewing projects in a row.  It's so frustrating, especially when I didn't expect to run into any major difficulties.  It's one thing to tackle a big, complicated project, but it's very much another to fail at a basic blouse.  I'm trying not to blame myself.  It's hard though; I've been sewing for long enough to have developed some confidence in my ability, and I really dislike not being able to save a project.  Wasted fabric just makes me really sad, not to mention the wasted time.

My first fail was Vogue 9085, a Very Easy Vogue pattern that should have been quick and painless.  I liked the band collar and sleeves on this blouse, and it looked to me like a pattern that would need only minimal fitting.  I chose a size according to my bust measurement, but I neglected to check the hip width.  In my defense, the line drawing looks like a loose-fitting shape, almost like a tunic.  Wrong.  I could barely get it to go over my hips, which was not the look I wanted. 

Line Art

I don't actually have this pattern anymore--it went into the trash after way too much time wasted trying to get this blouse to fit, only to realize that either I made a major mistake in cutting out the collar or the collar is not drafted to fit the neckline.  I'm leaning toward the latter.  

After removing all evidence of this first failure from my sewing space, I began anew with lots of enthusiasm.  I planned to make Vogue 1387 view B as a nice transitional blouse.

Line Art

I washed a bunch of fabric all at once so that maybe I could get on a roll with my fall sewing plans.  I thought it would be fine to wash all of my fabric together since they were all dark colors.  Word to the wise: red and black buffalo plaid flannel should always be washed separately.

I was a bit sad to see this, particularly because Cotton + Steel fabric is not cheap, but where there are problems, there can also be solutions.  My solution was hot pink Rit dye.

I had never dyed any fabric before, so this was a fun adventure.  My fabric took the color beautifully, but after the dyeing, I didn't feel like view B was a good match for it anymore.  Instead, I decided to go with view A.

This was not a good decision.  I'm going to blame most of the issues I had with this pattern on my fabric choice--too crisp, not enough drape.  The rest of my issues stem from the construction process. 

So, here's the almost finished blouse, minus the hem.  I'm not even sure I'm going to bother with hemming.  There are quite a few things I like about the design: the pleats at the yoke, the drawstring at the waist, the curved hem, the faux wrap.  I even think the fit would be pretty good in a fabric with more drape (I would probably tack the wrap closed).

I'm not crazy about the binding at the shoulders.  I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to stick out like that.  It makes me feel a little too space-agey or something.  Again, this would likely be solved by a better fabric choice.

Here's the back.  I like the V at the neckline, but the gathered yoke combined with the drawstring waist look terrible in this fabric.  Ick.

My major issues with this pattern are all with the construction of the armhole binding.  I honestly have no idea how the original directions could yield a decent result; it just doesn't make sense to me.  I hate the way my binding and gussets came out, which is a major reason why this blouse will probably never get a hem.

That's not to say that all is lost for Vogue 1387.  I will not be so easily defeated.  I have some burgundy gauze that I think will be pretty for view B, and I would really like to make view A work for me at some point.  Here are the changes I would make (you're welcome, future self):
1.  Sew the armhold binding before stitching the side seams.
2.  Finish the raw edges of the gussets before sewing them to the armholes.
3.  Sew in the gussets by stitching-in-the-ditch instead of sewing them to the seam allowance.
4.  Choose a fabric with lots of drape and no directional print.

I think it might be time to do a bit of kid sewing to get me back on track...

Aug 16, 2015

and finally, something interesting {v9077}

I haven't been around the blog nearly as much as I thought I might be this summer.  It's not for lack of sewing, but honestly, my summer sewing has been a bit repetitive and maybe even...boring.  I don't think anyone is going to be riveted by my fourth Wiksten tank or by Colin's third pair of Sketchbook shorts.


I've made a few repeat dresses too, which may make their way to the blog at some point.  I should also admit that I find taking showers and brushing my hair a little too strenuous for June and July, so taking pictures of these dresses had to wait.  However, my sweet high school babies are headed back to me on Tuesday, so I figured it was time to start practicing looking like an adult.  

I bought Vogue 9077 last spring thinking that it would be a good summer project, one that I could take my time on and enjoy.  There are a lot of interesting details in the line drawings:

Line Art 

Surprisingly, I have not found any other versions of this dress on the internet yet, so here is mine in a lovely linen/cotton blend.

I decided to put my darts on the inside instead of on the outside like the line drawing, mainly because I wasn't sure I could make my darts neat enough for them to be on display like that.  I also added a skirt lining to try to keep some of the wrinkling at bay.  Otherwise, I followed the pattern directions.  I cut a size 12, which is roughly where my measurements put me, but after looking at the finished measurement on the pattern, I decided to grade out to a 14 at the waist.  I probably don't need the extra room at the waist, but I'm happy with the amount of ease--this will be a comfortable dress to wear to work.  I also shortened the bodice by an inch, a standard alteration for my short torso.

I think the diagonal detail at the bodice looks pretty awesome, and it keeps this dress from looking boring.  I'm super proud of my button placket!  I've done a placket like this before in an Oliver and S pattern, so I don't know why it felt scarier in an adult pattern.  I'm a tiny bit annoyed by the collar--I wish I had trimmed the undercollar to accommodate turn-of-cloth, but otherwise, it turned out okay.  And, in case you're wondering what this looks like without the belt, here it is.

It's hard to decide, belt or no belt.  I like it from the front with the belt, but from the back without. 

When I first finished this dress, I put it on and strutted down the hall to show my husband, so proud of myself.  His first comment was, "you look like a flight attendant."  He later amended his statement...but now I can't get that image out of my head.  I think this is kind of a futuristic flight attendant dress, but I don't care.  Still love it.

Jul 19, 2015

sewaholic gabriola

Isn't summer the best?  In between swimming lessons, parks, gymnastics, and more swimming, I finally got around to making the Sewaholic Gabriola, which is basically like a grown-up princess skirt.  I started with five yards of rayon challis, and even though this pattern eats a lot of fabric, I still have enough left to make a matching blouse.

I really love the shape of this skirt! The panels at the hip give it a slim fit, but the hem is still plenty full.  I cut my usual size 6 for Sewaholic patterns, and I didn't find that any changes were needed for fit.  Rayon challis works well for this style of skirt--it feels like a dream to wear.  I'm not sure I chose the best top to pair with it though.  I thought that the high waist and slim shape would work with a loose t-shirt tucked in, but after looking at these pictures, I think (hope?) I can find a different top that is more flattering.

Construction-wise, this skirt gave me a run for my money.  I cut the lower front panels on the straight grain, hoping that would make the construction easier, but I ended up cutting those front panels three more times because I couldn't wrap my head around how the pattern pieces were supposed to fit together.  I would just stare at the shapes and stare at the directions and turn everything all kinds of ways...it was a bit frustrating.  In the end, I found some help in the sewalong, and it all turned out fine.  I'm so proud of my seam matching even if the print obscures the seam lines quite a bit.  Squint and see if you can find the seams:

 front panels

side panels

Once I figured out the hip panel geometry, the rest of the sewing process went smoothly.  I did have to carefully ease the top of the skirt into the waistband, but it turned out fine. After my confusion and head-scratching over the hip panels, I think I kept waiting for the next issue--every time a step went smoothly, I breathed a sigh of relief.  This is not supposed to be a particularly difficult skirt.  This one was on me. ;-)

Jun 13, 2015

summer lux

Yay for summer break!  I am so excited about the lazy days ahead, especially since there is a 10-year anniversary beach vacay in my near future.  I pretty much packed away my sewing stuff during the month of May, but I'm back full swing with a long list of summer projects.  One of the first items on my list was this little outfit for my almost six-year-old.


This is another version of the Charlie dress by Mingo and Grace, except turned into a swingy tank top.  I made no alterations to the pattern except to leave off the flounce.  The fabric is a gorgeous Nani Iro border print double gauze, hence the "lux" in the post title. :-) Double gauze really does feel so luxurious.  The shorts are Striped Swallow's Coachella shorts in linen.  I didn't sandwich the bias tape around the raw edges; instead, I applied it like flat piping.

The Charlie dress is really straightforward in terms of construction, and I want to make a million more of them.  I love the way this style looks on Cara--a tiny bit more grown up (but just a teeny, tiny bit) but still perfect for playing at the park.

I had a bit more trouble with the Coachella shorts.  I guess I'm not used to following directions anymore, so I found myself quite confused about how to overlap and attach the back of the shorts to the front.  I had an idea of how I thought it should work, which didn't match up with the directions at all.  I tried twice to make the method in the directions work, but in the end, I just did what I wanted to do, which was to simply topstitch to attach the back of the shorts to the front.

Isn't this double gauze print just gorgeous?  After I used a chunk of this fabric for myself (cough, cough), I didn't have enough left to cut the back using the border print.  I like how the back looks full of those watercolor flowers though.  No harm in being just a bit selfish. ;-)

Silly and sassy describe this girl perfectly. 

Cara has enthusiastically approved this outfit, so I think she may end up with a few more.  A girl can never have too many tanks and shorts.

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