Jul 19, 2015

sewaholic gabriola

Isn't summer the best?  In between swimming lessons, parks, gymnastics, and more swimming, I finally got around to making the Sewaholic Gabriola, which is basically like a grown-up princess skirt.  I started with five yards of rayon challis, and even though this pattern eats a lot of fabric, I still have enough left to make a matching blouse.


I really love the shape of this skirt! The panels at the hip give it a slim fit, but the hem is still plenty full.  I cut my usual size 6 for Sewaholic patterns, and I didn't find that any changes were needed for fit.  Rayon challis works well for this style of skirt--it feels like a dream to wear.  I'm not sure I chose the best top to pair with it though.  I thought that the high waist and slim shape would work with a loose t-shirt tucked in, but after looking at these pictures, I think (hope?) I can find a different top that is more flattering.


Construction-wise, this skirt gave me a run for my money.  I cut the lower front panels on the straight grain, hoping that would make the construction easier, but I ended up cutting those front panels three more times because I couldn't wrap my head around how the pattern pieces were supposed to fit together.  I would just stare at the shapes and stare at the directions and turn everything all kinds of ways...it was a bit frustrating.  In the end, I found some help in the sewalong, and it all turned out fine.  I'm so proud of my seam matching even if the print obscures the seam lines quite a bit.  Squint and see if you can find the seams:

 front panels

side panels

Once I figured out the hip panel geometry, the rest of the sewing process went smoothly.  I did have to carefully ease the top of the skirt into the waistband, but it turned out fine. After my confusion and head-scratching over the hip panels, I think I kept waiting for the next issue--every time a step went smoothly, I breathed a sigh of relief.  This is not supposed to be a particularly difficult skirt.  This one was on me. ;-)


Jun 13, 2015

summer lux

Yay for summer break!  I am so excited about the lazy days ahead, especially since there is a 10-year anniversary beach vacay in my near future.  I pretty much packed away my sewing stuff during the month of May, but I'm back full swing with a long list of summer projects.  One of the first items on my list was this little outfit for my almost six-year-old.

 

This is another version of the Charlie dress by Mingo and Grace, except turned into a swingy tank top.  I made no alterations to the pattern except to leave off the flounce.  The fabric is a gorgeous Nani Iro border print double gauze, hence the "lux" in the post title. :-) Double gauze really does feel so luxurious.  The shorts are Striped Swallow's Coachella shorts in linen.  I didn't sandwich the bias tape around the raw edges; instead, I applied it like flat piping.


The Charlie dress is really straightforward in terms of construction, and I want to make a million more of them.  I love the way this style looks on Cara--a tiny bit more grown up (but just a teeny, tiny bit) but still perfect for playing at the park.


I had a bit more trouble with the Coachella shorts.  I guess I'm not used to following directions anymore, so I found myself quite confused about how to overlap and attach the back of the shorts to the front.  I had an idea of how I thought it should work, which didn't match up with the directions at all.  I tried twice to make the method in the directions work, but in the end, I just did what I wanted to do, which was to simply topstitch to attach the back of the shorts to the front.


Isn't this double gauze print just gorgeous?  After I used a chunk of this fabric for myself (cough, cough), I didn't have enough left to cut the back using the border print.  I like how the back looks full of those watercolor flowers though.  No harm in being just a bit selfish. ;-)

Silly and sassy describe this girl perfectly. 

Cara has enthusiastically approved this outfit, so I think she may end up with a few more.  A girl can never have too many tanks and shorts.

May 10, 2015

seersucker charlie

I have no business sewing right now.  I am drowning in essays, quizzes, and the dreaded Independent Literary Analysis (an assignment as torturous for me as it is valuable for my students), and as a reasonable professional, I should be spending my weekend grading.  However, I am not entirely reasonable, and it is Mother's Day weekend.  One of my favorite things about being a mom is sewing for my kiddos.  Seriously, it's on my top ten list.


Because I know I shouldn't be sewing right now, I've compensated by becoming obsessed with planning my summer sewing projects.  How silly.  Yards and yards of beauties have arrived at my house only to be washed, folded, and stashed out of sight until June 7.  Except for this lovely bit of seersucker that I just couldn't put away.  I ordered this plaid seersucker with the Mingo and Grace Charlie dress in mind, and I figured that I could make an exception to my sewing moratorium for a dress so simple and adorable.


Cara is a big fan of Charlie.  It meets her criteria of 1. being a dress; 2. being a twirly dress; and 3. being pink.   I went with a size 6 width/7 length based on Cara's chest measurement and other reviews I read of this pattern.  I was worried that her dress might turn out too short to last through the summer, but she's got plenty of room in both length and width.

The construction of this dress is pretty simple.  I used my own method for the bias facing at the neckline and armholes.  I really like that the ruffle on the bottom is drafted to have a slightly curved shape; I think this gives the ruffle a nice drape.  I'm also quite tickled with my center back seam and it's horizontal stripe matching.  And that little flower button.


 Where did my child's teeth go?

This is a perfect dress for summer in South Carolina.  You can't go wrong with plaid seersucker in the south, and it's airy shape should keep my girl somewhat cool and comfortable.  And, in case you need to know, Cara tested the twirl factor extensively and awarded her approval.



Apr 25, 2015

v8574 goes to prom


In case you missed it, I teach high school English, and in high school, there is no bigger deal than prom (except for maybe graduation, although I think that's a bigger deal to the parents sometimes.  That's a post for another day...).  My school requires gently asks all teachers to attend prom for at least an hour, and I look at this as an opportunity to sew a fancy dress.  I'm not sure I can ever top last year's dress, but I think this dress holds its own.  And it gave me a good excuse wear red lipstick.



This is Vogue 8574, a dress Vogue likes to call "Very Easy Vogue."  I absolutely disagree with Vogue on this point.  While this is not a difficult dress to sew, I can't say that it was very easy.  The curved neckline and the precision required for the pleats definitely take this dress up a notch, but I'm really happy with the way everything turned out.  I should point out that this is not a fitted dress.  I cut a size smaller than my measurements call for and still ended up using a one inch seam allowance in the center back seam.  The end result is flowy and loose but still quite flattering, I think.

I used a lovely Joel Dewberry rayon challis for this dress, and it was delightful to work with.  This dress has a lined bodice, so a completely opaque fabric is necessary unless you want to add a skirt lining.  I found this fabric to be perfect for this dress.  It drapes and folds perfectly, and I love the vibrant reds matched with the subtle grays.  The large print lends itself well to a floor-length gown. 

The only issue I encountered was with the neckline.  I originally interfaced only the facing as the pattern instructs, but I found that the outer layer pulled and stretched a bit with the weight of the skirt.  I'm afraid I became a bit of a promzilla and recut the neckline, interfaced both sides and reconstructed the bodice.  In the process, I shortened the bodice maybe half an inch.  The bodice ended up fitting better than before, so I'm calling it a win.


I also decided to add a hand-picked zipper instead of an invisible zip just because.


I'm pretty excited to wear this dress tonight, and I have a few additional occasions in mind for this lovely.  I feel quite elegant wearing it, and really, isn't that what prom is all about?


Apr 12, 2015

#handmadecloset


At the end of my Spring Break, I realized that my closet had gotten a bit out of control, to the point that I couldn't close the doors anymore.  It was tough, but I sent two big garbage bags of clothes, shoes, and purses to Goodwill, and I even included a few of my handmades that didn't make the cut.  Admitting that something I sewed needed to leave my closet was particularly heart-wrenching--I'm so emotionally attached to those pieces.  I think I have a bit of guilt in admitting that I just don't like to wear a particular handmade garment.  If I spent the time and energy to plan and construct the garment, then I feel like I have an obligation to wear it.  I'm aware that this is not an entirely rational argument.


After the pains of purging came the joys of a clean closet with pretty much every item visible.  The doors can now be closed, which, interestingly, has lead to other changes in my morning routine.  I've never been one to make my bed (just ask my mom!), but having a clean, organized closet makes me want to have everything else in the room neat and tidy.  My husband was really confused at first, but I think he has appreciated that small step in housekeeping.


All of this closet-focused energy is quite timely as Me Made May is just around the corner.  I really enjoyed participating last year, and of course, I want to raise the bar a bit for this year's challenge.  My wardrobe is not 100% handmade, actually not even 50% handmade.   I have never made pants or knitted a sweater, so those items are all store bought.  My percentage of handmades is quite high for skirts and dresses; 71% of my skirts are handmade, along with 63% of my dresses.  I've made quite a few blouses this year, but still, only 31% of my tops (shirts, cardigans, blouses, across seasons) are handmade.  I started to wonder how much of my wardrobe I actually want to be me-made.  As much I might love to have passed every item in my closet through my sewing machine, I don't think that's a realistic goal for me.  I work a full-time job, I'm a mama to my two precious babies, and I want to have time to hang out with my husband and maybe even have a few friends.  While my sewing skills have progressed significantly since I started sewing in earnest five years ago, sometimes I'm still unhappy with the way my garments turn out.  I don't think I should force myself to wear things that I don't love.

Is it hard for other sewists to let go of handmade garments?  How much of your wardrobe is me-made?

Apr 5, 2015

Happy Easter!

Happy, happy Easter!  My babies looked so sweet in their fancy outfits today, all courtesy of Oliver and S. :-)


They just can't help it.

Cara's dress is the Oliver and S Fairytale Dress, my client's favorite pattern.  Her favorite feature is the twirly skirt, but I'm partial to the petal sleeves.
 Love that little bit of pink peeking out of the sleeve!

For this dress, I used purple lace for the outer layer and hot pink broadcloth underneath.  Initially, I planned to use the pink broadcloth as a true lining as the pattern intends, but I'm not that experienced with lace, and I was afraid that the negative space in the lace would create weak seams, which is not a good idea in children's clothing.  I decided to use the pink as an underlining, treated the two fabrics as one, and serging all of the seams (ps--I finally got a serger, and it is a game-changer!)  I finished the neckline with bias tape.


For sizing, I used a size 7 for the width of the bodice, sleeves, and length of the skirt, but I used the length of the 5 for the bodice.  The result is a slightly looser fitting dress, but I think it's more comfortable for Cara and it will likely fit longer, especially since I put in a nice, deep hem.  I'm incredibly pleased with the way this dress turned out--I think it's one of my handmade favorite dresses.

Colin has started to come back around to mama-made clothing, so he is wearing a Sketchbook Shirt with the Art Museum trousers, both in a 3T.


I went with the short sleeves and the band collar for the Sketchbook Shirt.  This was my first time trying the band collar, and I really like how it turned out.  I chose it because I thought it wouldn't get in Colin's way or be a bother the way a regular collar can.  I think I was worried about nothing though--he's been happy in his shirt all day.

Colin was very excited about this fabric.  He loves anything transportation, so ships are right up his alley.  This is a Robert Kaufman chambray, and it is lovely.  Just crisp enough but also lightweight and comfortable.  As much as I love the shirt, I am most proud of the trousers.  I know they don't look terribly impressive--just like regular navy pants, but I take some pride when I sew garments that do not look handmade.  Basic pieces can be just as exciting as fancy dresses when the details are there.

 Belt loops!  And welt pockets!

The very best thing about these outfits is that they are adorable and functional.  Children's clothing just has to be.  I love seeing my kiddos having a blast in clothes I've made for them.  All the love, babies; just don't spill bubbles on your fancy clothes.







Apr 4, 2015

a farewell to spring break and a Tova

Greetings from the end of Spring Break!  In my last post, I was lamenting the lack of warm weather, but spring finally delivered.  In a weird sort of way, spring break seems like mean trick.  I have enjoyed the free time, but it only lasts for a week and then it's back to the grind.  Don't get too comfortable, she says.  You'll be back to the morning rush and the evening catch-up in no time.

In spite of my love/hate feelings toward spring break, the kids and I have worked hard to squeeze every drop of enjoyment we can out of this week.  We've played with our friends at the park and jumped in every bouncy house we can find.  I've dumped the kids into the yard in the afternoons, decked out in their dress up clothes, and they've transformed their bikes and playhouse into fire trucks and castles.  It has been a wonderful summer preview.

 


Trunk picnics are our fav.

Spring break sewing has been a welcome break from my usual fits and starts.  It's nice to have two to three hours of naptime to sew pretty much uninterrupted and without the weight of school work on my mind.  I've finished Easter outfits for the kids, nearly finished a fancy-ish dress for me, and then there is this lovely blouse:


Since my last Tova didn't really get a proper post, I thought I would give this one its due.  I love the Tova.  I sewed a size small, and after chopping 2.5 inches off the length, the fit is perfect, particularly across the shoulders.  The Tova (at least for me) achieves the coveted balance between ease of movement and aesthetics.  


This fabric is a Japanese cotton voile I ordered from Miss Matatabi.  It was lovely to sew and has a texture almost like seersucker or gauze.  Japanese fabric feels like such a treat--I have a few more cuts that will eventually become little girl dresses.  The print has a watercolor look to it, especially with the muted gray and pop of green and yellow flowers.


I really like the way this fabric worked with the collar and placket.  It's very lightweight, so it drapes open perfectly.  I made my first Tova out of flannel, and while it wasn't difficult to work with, I noticed that the inset was much easier to sew neatly in a lightweight fabric. 


I love the way the sleeves are gathered and finished with a cuff.  It's a sweet, feminine detail and adds to the easy, effortless look of this blouse.


I think I sometimes take spring break (and summer break for that matter) for granted.  I know it's a big perk of teaching, but I wonder if it seeps into the corporate world.  Do others observe a version of spring break even if they aren't involved in education?

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