Aug 30, 2015

Vogue 1387--meh

I'm now at two failed sewing projects in a row.  It's so frustrating, especially when I didn't expect to run into any major difficulties.  It's one thing to tackle a big, complicated project, but it's very much another to fail at a basic blouse.  I'm trying not to blame myself.  It's hard though; I've been sewing for long enough to have developed some confidence in my ability, and I really dislike not being able to save a project.  Wasted fabric just makes me really sad, not to mention the wasted time.

My first fail was Vogue 9085, a Very Easy Vogue pattern that should have been quick and painless.  I liked the band collar and sleeves on this blouse, and it looked to me like a pattern that would need only minimal fitting.  I chose a size according to my bust measurement, but I neglected to check the hip width.  In my defense, the line drawing looks like a loose-fitting shape, almost like a tunic.  Wrong.  I could barely get it to go over my hips, which was not the look I wanted. 

Line Art

I don't actually have this pattern anymore--it went into the trash after way too much time wasted trying to get this blouse to fit, only to realize that either I made a major mistake in cutting out the collar or the collar is not drafted to fit the neckline.  I'm leaning toward the latter.  

After removing all evidence of this first failure from my sewing space, I began anew with lots of enthusiasm.  I planned to make Vogue 1387 view B as a nice transitional blouse.

Line Art

I washed a bunch of fabric all at once so that maybe I could get on a roll with my fall sewing plans.  I thought it would be fine to wash all of my fabric together since they were all dark colors.  Word to the wise: red and black buffalo plaid flannel should always be washed separately.


I was a bit sad to see this, particularly because Cotton + Steel fabric is not cheap, but where there are problems, there can also be solutions.  My solution was hot pink Rit dye.


I had never dyed any fabric before, so this was a fun adventure.  My fabric took the color beautifully, but after the dyeing, I didn't feel like view B was a good match for it anymore.  Instead, I decided to go with view A.


This was not a good decision.  I'm going to blame most of the issues I had with this pattern on my fabric choice--too crisp, not enough drape.  The rest of my issues stem from the construction process. 


So, here's the almost finished blouse, minus the hem.  I'm not even sure I'm going to bother with hemming.  There are quite a few things I like about the design: the pleats at the yoke, the drawstring at the waist, the curved hem, the faux wrap.  I even think the fit would be pretty good in a fabric with more drape (I would probably tack the wrap closed).


I'm not crazy about the binding at the shoulders.  I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to stick out like that.  It makes me feel a little too space-agey or something.  Again, this would likely be solved by a better fabric choice.


Here's the back.  I like the V at the neckline, but the gathered yoke combined with the drawstring waist look terrible in this fabric.  Ick.

My major issues with this pattern are all with the construction of the armhole binding.  I honestly have no idea how the original directions could yield a decent result; it just doesn't make sense to me.  I hate the way my binding and gussets came out, which is a major reason why this blouse will probably never get a hem.


That's not to say that all is lost for Vogue 1387.  I will not be so easily defeated.  I have some burgundy gauze that I think will be pretty for view B, and I would really like to make view A work for me at some point.  Here are the changes I would make (you're welcome, future self):
1.  Sew the armhold binding before stitching the side seams.
2.  Finish the raw edges of the gussets before sewing them to the armholes.
3.  Sew in the gussets by stitching-in-the-ditch instead of sewing them to the seam allowance.
4.  Choose a fabric with lots of drape and no directional print.

I think it might be time to do a bit of kid sewing to get me back on track...

4 comments:

  1. I actually think the blouse looks great on you! I'll bet if you finished the hem you could find another home for it if you still don't love it. The color turned out beautifully. PS I had to ignore the gusset and arm band markings after my frustrating muslin. They're just wrong. I just made sure everything met at the side seam circle, basted before I sewed, and it worked out fine.

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    1. Thanks, Morgan! I was really pleased with the way dyeing process turned out. Maybe I will hem this blouse and then wash it a few times to see if the fabric softens up some. Sometimes I end up liking a garment after washing and wearing a few times even when I wasn't crazy about it at first.

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  2. I also don't think it's bad at all. Nice save with the dying. It does look a little smock-like, but only in one of the pictures you posted--do you think with several washes the fabric will soften a bit? Did you try it with a cardigan on top or under a blazer? Or maybe you could make it sleeveless? I am still pretty new at this, but I really want to start trying Burda and Big 4 patters--so far I've stuck to inde patterns and the instructions on those are like gold. I'm nervous... (especially seeing posts like this!)

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    1. I haven't tried any Burda patterns, but Vogue is usually a good experience for me. I love the indie patterns, but it's hard to beat the selection and variety of the big 4. These two were my first not-so-great experiences with Vogue (and I've had plenty of not-so-great experiences with indie patterns, especially children's patterns).

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